One lot featured an exquisite diamond bow brooch, which once belonged to her grandmother, Queen Elena of Italy. Described in the catalogue as:
Can also be worn as a pendant Rose and old-cut diamonds, 18k gold and silver (French and customs marks), circa 1850 Main diamond: with an approximate weight of 6.0 carats Remaining diamonds: with a total approximate weight of 11.50-12.50 carats Size/Dimensions: 8.2 x 6.6 cm Gross weight: 57.2 grams
Queen Elena was originally a Montenegrin Princess, daughter of King Nicolas I. Born in 1873, she was educated at the Smolny Institute in St Petersburg, Russia. Her sisters had both married into the Imperial family and were later blamed for introducing Grigori Rasputin to the Tsarina Alexandra. Elena would go on to marry Victor Emmanuel of Italy in 1896, becoming Queen in 1900.
After the Russian Revolution of 1917, the Communists seized the Imperial family’s possession, including their vast jewellery collection. Some Romanov’s did manage to get their jewels out of Russia but any that remained were sold to fund the new regime in the famous auction of 1921.
To accompany this sale, the Communists produced an impressive catalogue with high quality photographs and descriptions to encourage buyers.
In Part Three of the Catalogue, Plate 58 (LVIII), there is a selection of brooches, buckles, button, and dress ornaments.
There is no record of who bought this brooch. Many dealers and collectors bought pieces and sold them on not wanting to disclose their dubious provenance. But given the dimensions and the carat weights mentioned in the Russian catalogue and the Christie’s description are extremely similar, there is the tantalising possibility that a Jewel belonging to Catherine the Great may have briefly resurfaced only to be lost to us once again.
Joel Arthur Rosenthal is commonly known within the jewellery community as the ‘Greatest Living Jeweller’.
But despite his impressive reputation, he is practically unknown to the general public. Unlike the other reigning jewellery dynasties such as Cartier and Faberge, Mr Rosenthal has no family connections to jewels and gemstones. He has no website, no social media and his shop in Paris’ Place Vendôme has no jewels displayed in its windows.
So how does a man with no public persona become a living legend?
In 1966, after studying linguistics, art history and philosophy in his native New York, JAR moved to Paris and opened a small sewing shop. There he experimented with unusually coloured yarns, earning himself commissions from designers such as Hermès and Valentino. Rosenthal only began experimenting with fine jewellery when he was asked to design a mount for a Gemstone.
With his background in textiles, JARs pieces were characterised by their fine pavé set formations, which resembled a piece of needlework. His first creations were made of affordable materials such as coral, moonstone and small diamonds. Eventually, he began to work with semi precious stones such as sapphires, rubies & emeralds.
With his growing success it would’ve been assumed that his jewellery business would become a mainstream brand like his Place Vendôme neighbours but this is where the mystery of JAR and his creations lie:
You cannot simply walk into his atelier, buy or commission a piece from him; An introduction has to be made via an established client. Once you meet with Rosenthal, he will create a piece FOR you; I imagine some input is made but the ‘myth’ is that upon meeting JAR, he decides the design, gemstones and metalwork that you will be adorned in. This intimate connection between JAR, the jewel and the owner is so central to Rosenthal’s philosophy that it makes up an integral part of the experience of any JAR jewel. His business model is so selective that his workshop only produces around 70 to 80 pieces a year. Because of this tactic, his designs can only be seen at rare exhibitions or at select auction houses.
The Exhibitions
His first public exhibition was held in 2002 at London’s Somerset House. Featuring four hundred pieces from his exclusive clientele, the jewels were displayed in dark cabinets with visitors having to use a torchlight to see them. This, according to Rosenthal, was because “jewellery needs to flicker”.
In 2013, he became the only living jeweller to have an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. “Joel is one of the pre-eminent jewellery designers in the world.,” the Met’s director said in an interview, “He’s almost like a sculptor in gems.” The exhibit displayed the key concerns of Rosenthal’s work: Colour, Sculpture, Nature and Intimacy.
The Auctions
Possibly the most famous event surrounding JAR was the Ellen Barkin auction in 2006.
After an unpleasant divorce, Ms Barkin decided to auction all the jewels that she had received from her ex husband. Amongst them were an astonishing 17 pieces by JAR, the largest collection of his work to ever come on the market.
Offered for sale were several impressive examples of JAR’s signature ‘needlework’ designs. One notable piece was the Diamond ‘Thread’ Ring which featured a magnificent 22.76ct D VVS1 Oval cut Diamond housed within a diamond set two tiered ‘threadwork’ mount
So (in)famous was this auction that it became the inspiration for the Samantha Jones’ storyline in the iconic Sex and the City Movie. The ring is question was modelled on JARs Diamond ‘Gardenia’. Designed as a sculpted gardenia blossom, it featured pavé-set in diamonds and was set in both in silver and gold,
The Auction of the Lily Safra Collection was held in Geneva in 2012 to benefit Mrs Safra’s charitable foundation. Arguably, two of the most impressive jewels ever created by JAR were to be featured at this historic occasion:
The Tourmaline and Diamond Flower Brooch Designed as two green and pink tourmaline poppy flowerhead and bud, linked by a green tourmaline scrolling stem centering upon a pear-shaped diamond, weighing approximately 37.23 carats,
The Ruby Flower Brooch Truly an iconic jewel, the flower was entirely pavé-set with rubies weighing a total of approximately 173.09 carats, mounted in silver and gold.
This jewel is not just visually stunning, it is a true testament to JARs dedication to fine craftsmanship. Rubies come in all different shades and hues of Red; from deepest blood coloured to borderline pink. Every ruby on this brooch matches all the others exactly. These stones would have taken months if not years to source.
In the ever-evolving world of craftsmanship and artistry, JAR continues to leave an indelible mark on the industry to this day. His exceptional talent and unwavering dedication has set him apart as a true visionary, redefining the boundaries of beauty and elegance in every creation. As time goes on, this living legend’s influence remains a source of inspiration for aspiring artisans and budding collectors alike, ensuring that their illustrious impact on the world of jewellery endures for generations to come.
Wallis Simpson, born on June 19, 1896, in Pennsylvania, United States, gained worldwide notoriety for her role in the abdication crisis of King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom. While her relationship with the British monarch remains the most well-known aspect of her life, Wallis Simpson had an unparalleled passion for exquisite jewellery. Her dazzling collection featured an extensive array of breathtaking Rubies, mesmerising Emeralds, and an impressive collection of bejewelled animals.
Having been his mistress for a number of years, upon his ascension to the throne in January, Wallis Simpson believed that her relationship with the new King Edward VIII would come to an end. However, his love for her only grew stronger, eventually reaching a level of obsession.
Despite Edward’s strong desire for Wallis to become his queen, the government and the Church of England would not accept a divorced woman as his consort. Moreover, there were underlying concerns about Edward’s suitability for the throne, which led to his eventual abdication in December 1936.
In his famous speech, Edward (now to be known as the Duke of Windsor) declared: ‘I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as king as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.‘
Wallis and Edward would marry France in 1937 but despite marrying a former king, Wallis was denied the title HRH (Her Royal Highness). This did not stop Edward from buying her jewels fit for a Queen.
One of the wedding presents Wallis received from her new husband was a sumptuous Sapphire and Diamond bracelet, often referred to as aJarretière. Edward had bought many pieces for Wallis from French jewellers Van Cleef & Arpels so he returned to them to commission this piece. The Jarretière was designed by their renowned jeweller, Renne Sin Lacaze who would go on to re-design Wallis’ Ruby Necklace.
Jarretière translates to ‘Garter’, the bracelet featured a diamond ‘ribbon’ that could be slipped through the back of a large circular Sapphire and Diamond element which would then clip to secure. It has been suggested that this piece was meant to mimic those worn by the Order of the Garter, the highest honour a British monarch can bestow, something Wallis may have received had she become Queen.
Described in the Sotheby’s Sale Catalogue: Designed as a wide flexible band of baguette and circular cut diamonds, the clasp is stylised bow design invisibly set with cushion shaped sapphires and baguette diamonds, inscribed in facsimile ‘For our Contract 18-V-37; signed and numbered: Van Cleef & Arpels – Paris – 46923
Like her Ruby Brooch, Van Cleef employed its legendary ‘Invisible Set’ technique for the 45 Sapphires featured in the central element.
As he did with many of her jewels, Edward inscribed the piece with a personal hidden message ‘For our Contract 18-V-37’. This was the date they were given legal permission to marry.
It is worth noting that only one other Iconic piece of jewellery has been referred to as a Jarretière, the Ruby and Diamond Jarretière owned by the legendary actress Marlene Dietrich.
Like her Flamingo Brooch, this important piece was rarely worn by the Duchess. She wore it for a series of portraits by George Hoyningen Huene in 1937, features her mysterious ‘tiara’
After World War II, Wallis and Edward emerged as the de facto leaders of Café Society. Their prominent status meant they frequently graced glamorous gatherings and social events
Like her many other bejewelled possessions, the Sapphire Bracelet was sold at auction at Sotheby’s after her death in 1987. The proceeds from the sale were donated to Pasteur Institute in Paris.
