bookmark_borderThe Jewels of Napoleon – The Mystery of Empress Josephine’s Tiara

In 2023, renowned director Ridley Scott released his epic biographical film ‘Napoleon’.
Starring Oscar winner Joaquin Phoenix, the film recreates the life and events of the legendary French General, Napoleon Bonaparte with Vanessa Kirby portraying Joséphine de Beauharnais, a minor French aristocrat and Napoleon’s first wife.

A pivotal scene of the film depicts the couple’s coronation in Notre-Dame de Paris on December 2nd 1804 where Napoleon shocked the attendees by first crowning himself Emperor of France and then crowning Joséphine, proclaiming her to be his Empress.

The Jewels of Napoleon - The Mystery of Empress Josephine's Tiara - Vanessa Kirby and Joaquin Phoenix
The Jewels of Napoleon – The Mystery of Empress Josephine’s Tiara – Vanessa Kirby and Joaquin Phoenix

Although the director has chosen to recreate this iconic scene as it was painted by Jacques – Louis David (itself not true representation of the event), the tiara worn by Kirby is based on a controversial headpiece, still in existence, that may or may not have been worn on that very day.


Viewed as an upstart and a usurper by the crowned heads of Europe, Napoleon wanted to emulate the style of Ancient Rome in order to establish his new, Imperial status. He embraced Neo Classicism, a new art movement that had sprung up to counteract the excesses of Baroque & Rococo.

Returning to the fashions of the ancient past, motifs of laurel wreaths, wheat sheaths and cameos were used in the jewels of the new court. In doing so, Josephine was the catalyst behind the modern tiara & parure. Many of Josephine’s jewels survived through the centuries and are still being worn by her descendants today, most notably in the Scandinavian monarchies


In 1949, The French Jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels purchased this Tiara from the estate of Violet Mond, Baroness Melchett. It had previously been in the collection of Angela Burdett Coutts (said to the richest woman in Britain at the time).

The Jewels of Napoleon - The Mystery of Empress Josephine's Tiara - Jacques Louis David - Napoleon's Coronation - Josephine's Tiara - Van Cleef & Arpels
The Jewels of Napoleon – The Mystery of Empress Josephine’s Tiara – Jacques Louis David – Napoleon’s Coronation – Josephine’s Tiara – Van Cleef & Arpels

During the 1960s, Van Cleef & Arpels featured it heavily in their marketing campaigns, emphasising that this was the tiara that had been worn by Josephine at her coronation.

The Jewels of Napoleon - The Mystery of Empress Josephine's Tiara - Jacques Louis David - Napoleon's Coronation - Josephine's Tiara - Van Cleef & Arpels

In an interview for French TV, Jacques Arpels stated that

“You see the diadem in the vitrine behind me, I bought it at the end of World War II from an aristocratic English lady. It’s the one that Empress Josephine wore on the day of her coronation. It was passed to the Empress Eugenie,, who sold it when she was in exile after the fall of the Second Empire in 1870. It was bought by an English lady who knew the Empress Eugenie. Subsequently it was left to the lady I bought it from”


In 1966, during the Century Ball in Monte Carlo, Princess Grace of Monaco was filmed wearing the tiara atop an elaborate hairstyle. The event was held to commemorate Monte Carlo’s 100th anniversary which coinciding with the reign of Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie.
As the theme of the ball was the Second Empire, Princess Grace elegantly embraced the outlandish fashion of that era, embellishing her attire with the imposing headpiece.


Jacques Arpels loaned the headpiece to the Grand Palais from June to December 1969 for the exhibition “Napoleon”.

The tiara was last photographed being worn during the 1988 Wedding Ball of Duchess Mathilde of Württemberg, and Prince Erich of Waldburg zu Zeil und Trauchburg.
It was worn by the bride’s grandmother, Isabelle, Comtesse de Paris – the wife of the French pretender to the throne. It was an interesting choice given that this was the family that Napoleon had superseded to the French throne.

It was after this last appearance that Bernard Morel, author of ‘The French Crown Jewels’ was compelled to comment:

Van Cleef & Arpels owns a 1040-diamond tiara mounted on yellow gold, and totaling 260 carats, which is reputed to have belonged to Empress Josephine and which was displayed at the Grand Palais from June to December 1969 at the exhibition “Napoleon”. This tiara would have been presented by Napoleon to the Empress, who would have bequeathed it to her daughter Queen Hortense. It would then have gone by inheritance to Napoleon III and would have been sold in London in 1872 by Empress Eugenie at the beginning of her exile.
Yet it is certain that this tiara did not exist in the inventory [of Josephine’s private jewels] made in 1804, nor in the one made in 1814, in which the only diamond tiara was partly dismantled and included briolettes, which is not the case of this tiara. It can not either be the diamond tiara delivered by [Crown jeweller] Nitot in 1807, which was made of 2882 diamonds. Of course, it could have been acquired and given away by the Empress between 1804 and 1814, but despite all our researches we could not find any proof of this supposal, nor any proof of the sale of this tiara by Empress Eugenie in 1872. Besides, Mr Serge Grandjean, head curator of the department of artefacts of the Louvre Museum, told us his doubts about the attribution of this tiara to Josephine: his doubts were based on the shape of the frontal part of the tiara, with a downward spike which looked to him incompatible with the style of the Napoleonic time, opinion which I fully share.

After this, Van Cleef and Arpels quietly sold the tiara and it has not been seen since.


So could this be the Tiara that Empress Josephine wore to her Coronation?

It is not out of the realm of possibility that Empress Eugenie would inherit some of Josephine’s jewels. Eugenie’s husband, Napoleon III was the son of Josephine’s only daughter Hortense de Beauharnais. And we know that Hortense received some of mother’s jewels when Josephine passed away in 1814. Her will stipulated that Hortense would inherit a share of her diamond collection, along with a parure of rubies and a parure of sapphires.

However, prominent jewellery historians have examined the Tiara and noted several inconsistencies in the composition of the piece. The diamonds on the side elements are claw set with a silver backing, which is typical of diamond set jewellery of the 19th Century.
But the middle section and diamond base are completely different and of poorer quality. The pear shaped element at the top and the foliate scrolls beneath feature simple pave claw set stones that are not set onto silver backings as the side elements are.

The Jewels of Napoleon - The Mystery of Empress Josephine's Tiara - Jacques Louis David - Napoleon's Coronation - Josephine's Tiara - Van Cleef & Arpels
The Jewels of Napoleon – The Mystery of Empress Josephine’s Tiara – Jacques Louis David – Napoleon’s Coronation – Josephine’s Tiara – Van Cleef & Arpels

So is this the tiara worn by Empress Josephine?

Could be but not really…

Jacques Arpels would not be the first (or the last) jeweller to embellish a piece with historical provenance in order to achieve a sale or promote his company. Parts of the Tiara could be from Josephine’s collection and reset into this headpiece. But what is clear is that this tiara in it’s current form was not the one worn to the coronation of Napoleon

bookmark_borderWallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor – The Flamingo Brooch


Wallis Simpson, born on June 19, 1896, in Pennsylvania, United States, gained worldwide notoriety for her role in the abdication crisis of King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom.
While her relationship with the British monarch remains one of the most well-known aspects of her life, Wallis Simpson had an unparalleled passion for exquisite jewellery. Her dazzling collection featured an extensive array of breathtaking Rubies, mesmerising Emeralds, and an impressive collection of bejewelled animals.

One such creature was a multi gemmed flamingo brooch which has become something of a trademark, despite her only being photographed wearing it four times.


Having been his mistress for a number of years, upon his ascension to the throne in January, Wallis Simpson believed that her relationship with the new King Edward VIII would come to an end. However, his love for her only grew stronger, eventually reaching a level of obsession.

Despite Edward’s strong desire for Wallis to become his queen, the government and the Church of England would not accept a divorced woman as his consort. Moreover, there were underlying concerns about Edward’s suitability for the throne, which led to his eventual abdication in December 1936.

In his famous speech, Edward (now to be known as the Duke of Windsor) declared:
‘I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as king as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.

Wallis and Edward would marry France in 1937 but despite marrying a former king, Wallis was denied the title HRH (Her Royal Highness).


Despite this, Edward continued buying Wallis jewels fit for a Queen.
Just as he would do with several of her pieces – The Duke visited Cartier with a collection of loose stones he owned and four bracelets with a necklace from Wallis’ collection.
The immaculately kept Cartier ledger shows that the jewellers were able to unset and reuse 42 calibré-cut Rubies, 42 Sapphires, 42 Emeralds and 102 Diamonds.

Together with the famed jewellery designer Peter Lemarchand, Edward was heavily involved in the construction of this new brooch. He insisted the diamond leg of the Flamingo be moveable as he did not want it to dig into Wallis’ chest if she were to bend down.

Hans Nadelhoffer in his book ‘Cartier, Jewellers Extraordinaire’ described the Brooch as:
Lemarchand’s animal figures have vigour, plasticity and an inimitable sense of movement – thanks it must be said, to the virtuoso technique of the Cartier craftsmen who executed the designs and who could capture the articulate litheness of a great cat or emphasise the tail of a bird of paradise with a flexible platinum setting….

Sotheby’s would go on to catalogue the Brooch as:
“Designed as a flamingo in a characteristic pose, the plumage set with calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires, the beak set with a cabochon citrine and sapphire, the eye set with a similarly cut sapphire, the head, neck, body and hinged legs pavé-set with circular-, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, measuring approximately 95mm x 65mm x 22mm, signed to the clasp MONTURE Cartier and indistinctly numbered, French assay and maker’s marks.”


Wallis was first pictured wearing the brooch at the Ritz Hotel, Madrid, on Edward’s forty-sixth birthday, 23rd June 1940

But in light of the War and the Duke’s political leanings, a decision was made that he would find a more suitable environment as Governor of the Bahamas. On her arrival on the island, Wallis chose to wear the Flamingo for their first press call.

Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor - The Flamingo Brooch
Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor – The Flamingo Brooch

The proximity of the Bahamas to Wallis’ native America meant the couple would sometimes make trips to Miami, Florida. On one such occasion in 1940, the Duke and Duchess were greeted by a large crowd and the American Press, with Wallis wearing the Flamingo Brooch on her lapel.


After World War II, Wallis and Edward emerged as the de facto leaders of Café Society. Their prominent status meant they frequently graced glamorous gatherings and social events. However, it appears that this brooch was either not a favourite or was only worn discreetly as Wallis was rarely photographed wearing it.

The last known photograph of the brooch was from 1970, sent to their secretary Suzanne Blum from their suite at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel.

Like her Engagement Ring and her many other bejewelled possesions, the Rubies were sold at auction at Sotheby’s after the Duchess’ death in 1987. The proceeds from the sale were donated to Pasteur Institute in Paris.
The Flamingo Brooch would reappear at Sotheby’s in 2010 and is now believed to be owned by the Cartier Heritage Foundation.

bookmark_borderYugoslavian Royal Jewels – Princess Olga’s Boucheron Diamond Tiara

Despite only existing from 1918 to 1945, The Kingdom of Yugoslavia held an impressive royal jewellery collection.
The main branch of the family may have owned the Yugoslavian Emeralds, but I would argue that the junior members of the Karađorđević clan possessed the more magnificent jewels.

.

 Princess Maria Pavlovna Demidova (Moina)

Made in 1907 by the jeweller Boucheron for the Russian Princess Maria Pavlovna Demidova, (known as Moina).
Moina was a member of the fabulously wealthy Demidoff dynasty who owed their fortune to the discovery of rich mineral reserves in the Russian Urals and the supply of arms to the army of Peter the
Great.

She married Prince Semyon Semyonovich Abamelek-Lazarev but the couple remained childless. This would lead to them adopting Moina’s nephew, Prince Paul of Yugoslavia (First cousin to King Alexander) and make him their heir.

.

The tiara is classic of the Edwardian period featuring stylised foliage and flowers, interspersed with diamond set scroll details. Several of the Round Brilliant Cuts have been described as ‘Yellow Diamonds’ however they are more than likely M-Z colour white diamonds, usually found in larger old mine cut stones.


In 1923, Prince Paul married Princess Olga of Greece and Denmark. This marriage was particularly advantageous to Yugoslavia as Olga was related to almost all the important royal families in Europe. Her father was Prince Nicolas of Greece and her mother had been born Grand Duchess Elena Vladimirovrna of Russia, daughter of the formidable and jewel obsessed Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, the Grand Duchess Vladimir.

Princess Olga received many bejewelled wedding presents from her family and ‘Aunt Moina’ would gift this tiara to her. She was so touched by the generosity she made a point of stopping at Moina’s home in Venice to say thank you before heading to Belgrade for the wedding.

When King Alexander was assassinated in 1929 and Prince Paul became the regent of Yugoslavia. Due to the retirement of Queen Marie, Princess Olga became the de-facto first lady.
Along with her Diamond Kokoshnik Tiara and her Ruby Olive Wreath Parure, Princess Olga wore her Boucheron Tiara for many formal portraits and important international events.

After the fall of Yugoslavia in 1945, Prince Paul and Princess Olga went into exile, but due to Olga’s close relation to other reigning European royals, the tiara was still seen at major events.

The tiara would be inherited by her son Prince Alexander’s second wife, Princess Barbara of Lichtenstein. She was only pictured wearing it on two occasions before it was sold to the Albion Art Institute where it remains, infrequently going on display .

bookmark_borderElizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Emeralds

“She was the Queen of Hollywood & she had the jewels to match.”
Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor was a British and American actress who began her career as a child actress in the early 1940s and was one of the most popular stars of classical Hollywood cinema in the 1950s.
Throughout the rest of her life, she remained a well-known public figure thanks to her eight marriages, outlandish way of life, and her dazzling collection of exquisite jewellery.

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds
Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Emeralds

By 1961 Elizabeth Taylor was the highest paid actress in the world. She received $1 million to play the leading role in the epic film ‘Cleopatra’.

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor - Cleopatra

After a false start in London, the film moved to Rome and it was there that Elizabeth met and fell in love with her co-star Richard Burton.
This relationship caused a scandal for several reasons. Not only were they both married but Elizabeth’s spouse was her deceased third husband, Mike Todd’s best friend, Eddie Fisher.

It was in Rome that Elizabeth would introduce Richard to the renowned Roman jeweller, Bulgari.

In her book ‘My Love Affair with Jewelry’ Elizabeth would describe her visit:
Undeniably, one of the biggest advantages to working on Cleopatra in Rome was Bulgari’s nice little shop…
One day Richard said “I want to buy you a present. I feel like buying you a present” and I said “Wow, What did we do today that you…that’s amazing! Where! Where shall we go?” “Bulgari of course” he said.

Elizabeth’s Emerald suite was gradually expanded by Richard Burton over their years together, comprising of a number of remarkable pieces.
Christie’s catalogued them as:

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Flower Spray Brooch

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND FLOWER BROOCH, BY BVLGARI
Mounted en tremblant, designed as a spray of variously-shaped diamond flower blossoms set with oval-cut emerald pistils and petals, extending baguette-cut diamond stems, mounted in platinum, 1960
By BVLGARI

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Earrings

A PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY BVLGARI
Each suspending a pear-shaped emerald, within a graduated circular-cut diamond surround, to the marquise and circular-cut diamond quatrefoil surmount, mounted in platinum, 1960
By BVLGARI

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Brooch & Necklace

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BVLGARI
Set with a graduated series of sixteen rectangular-cut and square-cut emeralds, each within a circular-cut diamond surround, spaced by graduated circular-cut, marquise-cut and pear-shaped diamond quatrefoils, mounted in platinum, 1962, 14¼ ins., with pendant hoop for suspension, may be worn suspending lot twenty-nine
Signed BVLGARI
AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDANT BROOCH, BY BVLGARI
Set with a rectangular-cut emerald, within a pear-shaped diamond surround, mounted in platinum, 1958, may be worn suspended from lot twenty-eight
Signed BVLGARI
*These were separate pieces but wore often worn together

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Ring

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, BY BVLGARI
Set with a rectangular-cut emerald, within a circular and modified triangular-cut diamond surround, mounted in platinum, 1962
Signed BVLGARI

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Bracelet

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY BVLGARI
Set with a graduated series of thirteen rectangular-cut and square-cut emeralds, spaced by rectangular-cut diamonds, trimmed with circular-cut diamond trefoils and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum, 1963, 6¾ ins.
Signed BVLGARI


Burton and Taylor would become the biggest stars of the 1960s. Not only for their jet set lifestyle but for the classic films they made together.

When she won her second Oscar for ‘Who’s afraid of Virginia Woolf’ Elizabeth chose to wear her Emerald suite.

She and Burton divorced in 1974 but reconciled soon after, remarrying in 1975. The second marriage ended in divorce in 1976. Burton died in 1984 but Elizabeth maintained that they would probably have married again.

She would continue to wear her emeralds in later life.

When she died in 2011, it was decided to auction her jewels to raise money for her AIDS foundation.
It was at this time that a very strange rumour regarding the origins of the Emeralds began. It had been suggested that they once belonged to Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, The Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia.

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Jewels from Bulgari - Grand Duchess Vladimir Emeralds
Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Emeralds – Emerald and Diamond Jewels from Bulgari – Grand Duchess Vladimir Emeralds

However, Jewellery Historian Vincent Meylan refuted this story:

From time to time, I read that the emerald necklace created by Bulgari for Elizabeth Taylor was, at least partly, created with some of the extraordinary emeralds from the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia ‘s necklace!
This is not true and further more, it is impossible. Grand Duchess Vladimir´s emeralds were spectacular. As most of you know, after her death, her emeralds were sold at Cartier who used seven of them on a necklace which was sold to Barbara Hutton. In 1966, Barbara Hutton got tired of her necklace and she brought it at Van Cleef and Arpels in Paris. Van Cleef bought the emeralds. In April 1967, Elizabeth Taylor appeared at a public event in London wearing a rather spectacular emerald necklace created by Bulgari. Around Elizabeth Taylor’s jewellery auction in 2011, a rumour started : some of the emeralds included in Elizabeth Taylor’s necklace may come from from Barbara Hutton’s necklace and therefore from Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia. Neither Christie’s, who organised the auction, or Bulgari, who bought back the necklace ever commented on that subject. But some still wanted to believe in that legend.

With Elizabeth Taylor’s passing in 2011, the emeralds were sold at Christie’s in a legendary auction that raised $137.2 million for her AIDS foundation. These exquisite gems, once a symbol of love, continue to sparkle as a reminder of her timeless elegance and legacy in the world of cinema. The Emeralds are now part of the Bulgari Heritage Collection

bookmark_borderElizabeth Taylor’s Cartier Rubies

“She was the Queen of Hollywood & she had the jewels to match.”
Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor was a British and American actress who began her career as a child actress in the early 1940s and was one of the most popular stars of classical Hollywood cinema in the 1950s.
Throughout the rest of her life, she remained a well-known public figure thanks to her eight marriages, outlandish way of life, and her dazzling collection of exquisite jewellery.

In 1957, Elizabeth’s third husband, the flamboyant film director Mike Todd walked in to Cartier in Monte Carlo and purchased one of the most extravagant sets available on the Riviera .

Christie’s described the pieces as:

Elizabeth Taylor's Cartier Rubies - Ruby and Diamond Necklace

A RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
Designed as a circular and baguette-cut diamond latticework bib, set at the front with seven oval and cushion-cut rubies, to the circular and baguette-cut diamond neckchain, joined by a cushion-cut ruby and shield-shaped diamond clasp, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, 14 ins., with French assay marks and maker’s mark
Signed Cartier, Paris, no. MC 1151

A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY CARTIER
Each set with a line of three oval and cushion-cut rubies, each within a circular and baguette-cut diamond surround, to the circular and baguette-cut diamond scrolling surmount, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, with French assay marks and maker’s marks
Signed Cartier, Paris, nos. MC 1743 and 01610

A RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Set with a graduated line of ten oval and cushion-cut rubies, each within a circular-cut diamond double oval surround, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, 6 1/8 ins., with French assay marks
Signed Cartier, Paris, no. 07302

In her book ” My Love Affair with Jewelry’, Elizabeth described the moment she received the Rubies:

‘When Mike gave me the rubies, I was pregnant with Liza… I was swimming laps at our home when Mike came outside to keep me company. I got out of the pool and put my arms around him, and he said, “Wait a minute, don’t joggle your tiara.” Because I was wearing my tiara in the pool! He was holding a red leather box, and inside was a ruby necklace that glittered in the warm light. It was like the sun, lit up and made of red fire. First, Mike put it around my neck and smiled. Then he bent down and put matching earrings on me. Next came the bracelet. Since there was no mirror around, I had to look into the water. The jewellery was so glorious, rippling red on blue like a painting. I just shrieked with joy, put my arms around Mike’s neck, and pulled him into the pool after me. It was a perfect summer day and a day of perfect love.”


Mike Todd was at the height of his professional success. Around the World in Eighty Days, his most popular production, had debuted in 1956 to tremendous box office success. A few weeks after he wed Elizabeth, the film received the Golden Globe Award for Best Picture in February 1957. Just a few weeks later in March, Mike Todd accepted the Academy Award for Best Picture.
The couple travelled to London in July 1957 to attend the film’s glitzy British premiere at the Astoria Cinema on Charing Cross Road.
The Associated Press reported, “Yards of crimson chiffon trailed from her sun-bronzed shoulders to the floor. Her ruby and diamond earrings and necklace glittered.”


Tragically, Mike Todd would die in a plane crash March 22, 1958, leaving Elizabeth devastated. In later life, after eight marriages, she would say that Mike Todd was the love of her life and she would still wear his gifts to her, including the Cartier Rubies

With Elizabeth Taylor’s passing in 2011, her beloved rubies were sold at Christie’s in a legendary auction that raised $137.2 million for her AIDS foundation. These exquisite gems, once a symbol of love, continue to sparkle as a reminder of her timeless elegance and legacy in the world of cinema. The Rubies are now part of the Cartier Heritage Collection

bookmark_borderBalkan Royal Jewels – The Yugoslavian Diamond Kokoshnik Tiara

Despite only existing from 1918 to 1945, The Kingdom of Yugoslavia held an impressive royal jewellery collection.
The main branch of the family may have owned the Yugoslavian Emeralds, but I would argue that the junior members of the Karađorđević clan possessed the more magnificent jewels. Continue Reading….

bookmark_borderWallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor – The Van Cleef and Arpels Rubies

Wallis Simpson, born on June 19, 1896, in Pennsylvania, United States, gained worldwide notoriety for her role in the abdication crisis of King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom.
While her relationship with the British monarch remains one of the most well-known aspects of her life, Wallis Simpson had an unparalleled passion for exquisite jewellery. Her dazzling collection featured an extensive array of breathtaking Sapphires, exquisite Diamonds, mesmerising Emeralds, and an impressive suite of stunning Ruby jewellery

The Ruby pieces were all given to Wallis during The Year of the Abdication, 1936. Having been his mistress for a number of years, upon his ascension to the throne in January, Wallis Simpson believed that her relationship with the new King Edward VIII would come to an end. However, his love for her only grew stronger, eventually reaching a level of obsession.
He turned to the famous French Jewellery house, Van Cleef and Arpels, to help him convey these overwhelming feelings into a suite of fiery, passionate ruby set jewels.


The Ruby and Diamond Bracelet
The first piece in this legendary collection was a Ruby and Diamond bracelet given to Wallis in March 1936. Featuring forty Cushion Cut Rubies, the impressive jewel also bore an inscription in Edward’s own handwriting. Determined to have Wallis crowned next to him as his Queen, ‘Hold Tight’ is thought to have been a personal plea from the King to Wallis, begging her not to leave him.


The Ruby and Diamond Necklace

For her 40th Birthday in June 1936, Edward returned to Van Cleef and Arpels with gemstones that he had been given when he toured India in 1921-22 as the Prince of Wales. The meticulous records kept by the jewellers show that several designs were produced before the King settled on the initial ‘Bib’ creation.
Like the Ruby bracelet, the necklace carried another handwritten engraving – ‘My Wallis from her David 19 VI 36’ (David was the name his family called Edward)

It is believed that the original necklace was extremely similar to one created for Helen Beaumont that was later sold at Christie’s in 2020.

As she would do with so many of her jewels, Wallis would return to Van Cleef & Arpels to redesign the necklace in collaboration with the master jeweller Renee-Sim Lacaze.
In 1939, they transformed the original ‘Bib’ into one of the Duchess’ most iconic pieces, variously known as the Torsade, Entrelac de Rubans or Cravat necklace.

The Ruby and Diamond Brooch

Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor – The Van Cleef and Arpels Rubies - Ruby and Diamond Leaves Brooch - Mystery Invisible Set
Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor – The Van Cleef and Arpels Rubies – Ruby and Diamond Leaves Brooch – Mystery Invisible Set

As 1936 came to an end, it became obvious that Edward VIII would abdicate his throne rather than give up Wallis Simpson. While he negotiated his departure, he ordered Wallis’ Christmas present from Van Cleef and Arpels – A Ruby and Diamond Brooch (described as Feathers or Holly Leaves)

This Brooch would turn out to be an historically important jewel as it was one of the first to feature Van Cleef and Arpels legendary Mystery Set technique.
The “Serti Mystérieux” or “Mystery Set’ was invented in 1933. The technique involves mounting stones into extremely thin gold rails, making the prongs invisible. The stones are specially cut with a groove near the culet so that they can be slid onto the rails and placed alongside neighbouring stones.

The invisible setting technique creates an uninterrupted surface of stones without any visible metal. The gems appear to float on the surface of the jewel, shaped as if by magic. This type of setting is most often used when multiple diamonds are mounted in a row or in multiple rows.

After World War II, Wallis and Edward emerged as the de facto leaders of Café Society. Their prominent status meant they frequently graced glamorous gatherings and social events.
At a ball given by Helene Rochas in Paris 1965, Wallis chose to wear her all her Rubies, even fashioning the Brooch into a headpiece which she is supposed to have called ‘my Prince of Wales feathers’

Like her Engagement Ring and her many other bejewelled possesions, the Rubies were sold at auction at Sotheby’s after the Duchess’ death in 1987.
The proceeds from the sale were donated to Pasteur Institute in Paris.

bookmark_borderMeghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex Wedding Tiara – The True Story.

Meghan Markle wanted to wear an Emerald Tiara for her Wedding but she was told that the one she wanted was not available as it had ‘unknown Russian origins’.

Regardless of your opinion of Harry & Meghan, this story is completely false

There are several sides to this story and all can be deconstructed and explained.


There are no items in the Royal Collection that have ‘Unknown Russian Origins’

The Royal Collection of the British Royal Family is the largest private art collection in the world. It is made up of over one million objects, including 7,000 paintings, over 150,000 works on paper, this including 30,000 watercolours and drawings, and about 450,000 photographs, as well as around 700,000 works of art, including tapestries, furniture, ceramics, textiles, carriages, weapons, armour, jewellery, clocks, musical instruments, tableware, plants, manuscripts, books, and sculptures.
It is meticulously catalogued and all information is publicly available

‘Unknown Russian origins’ was picked up and used to infer that Meghan had wanted to wear the Grand Duchess Vladimir’s Tiara with the Cambridge Emerald drops.

The Grand Duchess Vladimir’s tiara has very clear and documented origins. It was made for Maria Pavlovna, The Grand Duchess Vladimir in 1874 and purchased by Queen Mary from Princess Nicolas of Greece (Maria’s daughter) in 1927.

There is an Insurance valuation from Cartier and a note in the Royal Accounts stating how much was paid for it.

Meghan Markle Duchess of Sussex Wedding Tiara The True Story - Cartier receipt and Royal Accounts
Meghan Markle Duchess of Sussex Wedding Tiara The True Story – Cartier receipt and Royal Accounts

The Emerald pendants seen in this tiara did not originate in Russia either. After she bought the tiara, Queen Mary converted the frame to accommodate not only the original Pearl drops but Emeralds that had belonged to her own family (The Cambridge Emeralds).


Mary regularly bought pieces from the exiled Russian Royals after the Revolution in 1917, such as Tsarina’s Maria Feodorovna and Grand Duchess Xenia.
It has been suggested that Queen Mary may not have paid the true market value for the pieces given her ‘enthusiasm’ for collecting but the Royal Family did pay allowances to the Romanovs and ensured that they had a comfortable (if not grand) life in exile.

Perhaps Meghan saw this tiara and asked to wear it for the wedding, unaware that she would be given a selection and could not just choose any tiara she pleased.
But again, why bring Unknown Russian Origins in to it? A clear indication that this part of the story is false.


The Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara

It is worth noting that this story only came about after Princess Eugenie’s wedding where she wore the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara.
Speculators assumed this had been the Emerald tiara that Meghan had coveted. But once again, it’s origins are well documented and can be easily traced.

The word Kokoshnik is a Russian word meaning ‘Cock’s Crown’. It is used to describe a traditional Russian peasant headdress.


During the period of Russification in the 19th century, the Russian nobility began to wear Kokoshnik style tiaras but in true Romanov style, they covered theirs in precious jewels. As the Grand Duchesses began to marry into the European Royal houses, this style became the height of fashion and was adopted by the other courts.

Meghan Markle Duchess of Sussex Wedding Tiara The True Story - Dame Margaret Greville

One such admirer was Mrs. Margaret Greville. A prominent society hostess in the 1930s, she became friends with Queen Elizabeth, the future Queen Mother. In an effort to leave a lasting legacy for the royal collection, she left some of her most exquisite gems to her friend when she passed away in 1942.
Amongst the ‘Greville Bequest’ was a Boucheron Emerald and Diamond Tiara.

Meghan Markle Duchess of Sussex Wedding Tiara The True Story - The Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara 1
Meghan Markle Duchess of Sussex Wedding Tiara The True Story – The Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara 1

Made by the French jeweller Boucheron in Paris between 1919 – 1921, the Kokoshnik features a 93.70 Carat Cabochon Cut Emerald with 6 Step Cut Emeralds interspersed around the diamond Art Deco style band.

So the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara is ‘Russian Style’ but does not have ‘Russian Origins’


Princess Eugenie had already picked the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara for her Wedding because it is considered in the ‘1st Class of Tiaras’

Another confusing detail added to this story was that Meghan wanted the Greville Kokoshnik but it had already been promised to Eugenie and as a Royal Princess, Eugenie would’ve had access to the ‘1st Class tiara’s’ where as Meghan would only be allowed to use a tiara from the ‘3rd Class’.

Meghan Markle Duchess of Sussex Wedding Tiara The True Story - Meghan Markle, Princess Eugenie


In his memoir ‘Spare’, Prince Harry wrote that Meghan was presented with a selection of five tiaras by Queen Elizabeth II to choose from.
It seems very odd to show someone something that they cannot have?
And while certain tiaras are worn exclusively by certain senior members of the family, there is no class system when it comes to tiaras.

And if the Greville tiara was such a 1st Class tiara then why was it not worn between 1943 and 2018? The Queen Mother, Queen Elizabeth II and other members of the Royal Family have worn numerous pieces from the Greville Bequest over the years so why not this Tiara?


It can therefore be concluded that this story was invented by the media, intended to increase views and clicks but has no basis in truth.

bookmark_borderMonaco’s Royal Tiara – The Cartier Diamond and Pearl Drop Tiara

Before the American actress Grace Kelly enlarged the royal jewellery collection with her marriage to Prince Rainier in 1956, the next best thing were the personal jewels of Rainier’s mother, Princess Charlotte, Duchess of Valentinois. Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderRussian Royal Jewels – Tsarina Maria Feodorovna Sapphire Brooch

Before the Russian Revolution Maria Feodorovna was at the centre of Imperial Court life. Unlike her antisocial daughter in law (Tsarina Alexandra), Maria Feodorovna believed it was the duty of the Empress of Russia to be on display. Being one of the wealthiest monarchies of all time, the Romanovs displayed their power using their outstanding jewel collections. Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderGrace Kelly’s Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Wedding Bracelet

Grace Kelly's Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Wedding Bracelet - Princess Grace of Monaco

Although their Principality may be famous for its Grand Prix, generous income tax laws and being the second smallest state in the world, the Princes of Monaco do not have a conventional collection of royal jewels unlike their dynastic counterparts throughout Europe.
Therefore, when she married Prince Rainier in 1956, the American actress Grace Kelly had to start her own jewellery collection from scratch. Prince Rainier’s mother, Princess Charlotte, did own several impressive pieces (such as her Cartier Pearl and Diamond Fringe Tiaras) but these were personal property and she was apparently unwilling to share with her new daughter in law.

Fortunately for Grace, she had received several impressive jewelled wedding presents to kick start the collection, including a beautiful Pearl and Diamond Parure from the French Jeweller, Van Cleef & Arpels,
two engagement rings and a Diamond and Ruby tiara from Cartier


In order to make up for causing a minor scandal, the National Council of Monaco purchased their new princess a 58 Carat Diamond Cartier Necklace and an intricate diamond bracelet from Van Cleef and Arpels.

Set in platinum, this beautiful bracelet contains Round Brilliant and Baguette Cut Diamonds set in an interlaced pattern with three large diamond elements interspersed throughout.


Keen to live up to the fairy-tale image, Princess Grace would wear her most impressive jewels during her early years to state events, such as when visiting the Vatican in 1957.

She would continue to wear her Diamond bracelet (along with her other Wedding presents) throughout her life, for both official and social events.


After her tragic death in 1982, Princess Grace’s jewellery became part of the ‘Palais Princier de Monaco Collection’.
This Collection encompasses not only jewels but fine art, furniture and Prince Rainier’s famous vintage cars. Princess Grace’s Jewels are often loaned out to exhibitions.

Grace Kelly's Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Wedding Bracelet - Princess Grace of Monaco
Grace Kelly’s Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Wedding Bracelet – Princess Grace of Monaco

The jewels are available for use by any member of the Grimaldi family but it has been Princess Caroline who has been the main wearer of her family’s pieces over the years.  From the time of her mother’s death in 1982 to her brother Albert’s marriage in 2011, Caroline was effectively Monaco’s first lady.
As such, she would wear her mother’s jewels when representing and promoting the Principality. In 1999, Princess Caroline married Prince Ernst August of Hanover, Duke of Brunswick. This marriage elevated Caroline from a Serene Highness (HSH) to a Royal Highness (HRH) and put her at the heart of the European Royal Society.
Ernst August is head of the House of Hanover which makes him related to all the major European royal families. Therefore, Caroline’s presence is required at high profile events where she will often wear elements of her mother’s jewellery collection.

Continuing the tradition, the younger Grimaldi’s have now begun to wear Princess Grace’s jewels.
At the annual Rose Ball in Monte Carlo in 2019, Tatiana Santo Domingo (wife of Grace’s grandson Andrea Casiraghi) wore the Diamond Bracelet along with Princess Grace’s anniversary earrings.

bookmark_borderPrincess Diana’s Sapphire Jewels

It is hard to remember Princess Diana without thinking about her magnificent collection of Sapphire jewellery. She was synonymous with the dark blue jewel from the moment she entered the public eye and over the years she managed to build a sumptuous collection featuring some outstanding pieces . Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderMonaco’s Royal Jewels – Grace Kelly’s Pearls

When she married Prince Rainier in 1956, the American actress Grace Kelly had to start her own jewellery collection from scratch. Fortunately for Grace, she had received several impressive jewelled wedding presents to kick start the collection including a beautiful Pearl and Diamond Parure from the French Jeweller, Van Cleef & Arpels. Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderThe Greek Royal Rubies

Worn by the Queens of the Hellenes (Greece), this beautifully delicate Ruby and Diamond Parure includes a Ruby Olive Wreath and Diamond tiara, a pair of Diamond and Ruby drop earrings, an impressive Diamond and Ruby necklace and two magnificent Diamond and Ruby brooches. Originating in Imperial Russia, it can still be seen at important Royal events today. Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderBalkan Royal Jewels – The Royal Emeralds of Yugoslavia

The jewels we know today as the Yugoslavian Emeralds actually started their journey at the Court of Imperial Russia. The gemstones were sent to the Imperial Court Jeweller (Bolin) who set them into the traditional headdress of the Russian court, the Kokoshnik. Bolin also created a matching necklace, earrings, brooch and stomacher. Continue Reading…


bookmark_borderBritish Royal Jewels – The Kent Pearl Bandeau Tiara

In 1934, Princess Marina married George, Duke of Kent, Fourth Son of King George V of England.
As was tradition, she received many bejewelled gifts from both her family and her new in laws. Along with the Cambridge Sapphires and her Cartier Clips, she also received her mother’s Pearl Bandeau. Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderMonaco’s Royal Jewels – The Diamond Fringe Tiara Mystery

Although their Principality may be famous for its Grand Prix, generous income tax laws and being the second smallest state in the world, the Princes of Monaco do not have a conventional collection of royal jewels unlike their dynastic counterparts throughout Europe.
The Grimaldi’s may have ruled the principality since 1297, but before the American actress Grace Kelly enlarged the royal jewellery collection with her marriage to Prince Rainier in 1956, the next best thing were the personal jewels of Rainier’s mother, Princess Charlotte, Duchess of Valentinois.

Continue Reading…