bookmark_borderPrincess Olga of Yugoslavia’s Diamond Rivière Necklace

Despite only existing from 1918 to 1945, The Kingdom of Yugoslavia held an impressive royal jewellery collection.
The main branch of the family may have owned the Yugoslavian Emeralds, but I would argue that the junior members of the Karađorđević clan possessed the more magnificent jewels.

In 1923, Prince Paul of Yugoslavia (first cousin of King Alexander I) married Princess Olga of Greece and Denmark. This marriage was particularly advantageous as Olga was related to almost all the important royal families in Europe. Her father was Prince Nicolas of Greece and her mother had been born Grand Duchess Elena Vladimirovna of Russia, daughter of the formidable and jewel obsessed Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, the Grand Duchess Vladimir.

Her maternal grandmother, Queen Olga of Greece, was also a Russian Grand Duchess by birth with her own magnificent jewellery collection.
As she was growing up, it was a Romanov family tradition to give girls two diamonds a year for birthdays and name days until they reached adulthood.

By the time she was sixteen, Olga already had 26 diamonds that she could sew in to her Kokoshnik, the traditional Russian court headdress.

When she married King George I of Greece in 1867, Queen Olga had the diamonds converted into a Rivière Necklace

Designed as twenty-six graduated cushion-cut diamonds, mounted in gold and silver, circa 1860, currently 38.0 cm long, in red leather Cartier case. Typical with jewellery from the time, the old mine cuts are mounted onto a silver backing to improve the stones colour.

Olga would wear the necklace during her time as Queen and miraculously managed to retain her jewels through both the Russian Revolution and the fall of the Greek monarchy in 1917.


When her granddaughter and namesake, Princess Olga married in 1923, she received many bejewelled wedding presents from her family including her Boucheron Tiara and Diamond Kokoshnik. Queen Olga chose this occasion to give the Rivière Necklace to her granddaughter, which she proudly wore on her wedding day.

When King Alexander was assassinated in 1929 and Prince Paul became the regent of Yugoslavia. Due to the retirement of Queen Marie, Princess Olga became the de-facto first lady.
She would go on to borrow her grandmother’s Ruby Olive Wreath Parure from her mother but she would wear her Rivière Necklace for many formal portraits and important international events.

After the fall of Yugoslavia in 1945, Prince Paul and Princess Olga went into exile, but due to Olga’s close relation to other reigning European royals, the Rivière Necklace was still seen at major events.

It is unclear who inherited the Rivière Necklace after Olga’s death in 1997 but it appeared at Christie’s Auction house in 2006, realising a final price of 1,005,600 CHF. It’s current whereabouts are unknown.

bookmark_borderThe Joyas de Pasar – The Jewels of the Queen of Spain – The Fleur de Lys Tiara

The Joyas de Pasar (the Jewels to pass on) are a set of jewels that may only be worn by the Queens of Spain.

In 1963, when she was writing her will in Lausanne, Switzerland, The exiled Queen Victoria Eugenia (Ena) of Spain specified that the following jewels were to be passed on to her son Don Jamie and then to her grandson Don Juan Carlos:

The Joyas de Pasar - The Jewels of the Queen of Spain - The Fleur de Lys Tiara - La Buena
  • A diadem of diamonds with three Fleur de Lys
  • The largest diamond Riviere
  • The necklace with thirty-seven large pearls
  • A diamond brooch from which hangs a pear-shaped pearl called “La Peregrina”
  • A pair of earrings with a large diamond and diamonds all around
  • Two identical diamond bracelets
  • Four strands of large pearls
  • A brooch with a large pale grey pearl surrounded by diamonds and from which a pear-shaped pearl hangs.

The ‘diadem of diamonds with three fleurs-de-lis’ is known to us as the Fleur de Lys Tiara. Nicknamed ‘La Buena’ (the good one) it is the most imposing and the most regal tiara in the Spanish collection.

The Joyas de Pasar - The Jewels of the Queen of Spain - The Fleur de Lys Tiara - La Buena

The tiara was originally commissioned as a wedding gift for Princess Victoria Eugenia of Battenberg, a granddaughter of Queen Victoria on her marriage to King Alfonso XIII of Spain in 1906.

Alfonso came from Spanish branch of the House of Bourbon, the royal family who had ruled France until the revolution in 1789. The Fleur de Lys had been the traditional symbol of French royalty since the middle ages. English kings later used the symbol on their coats of arms to emphasise their claims to the throne of France. The Spanish Bourbons had taken the throne of Spain in 1700 and continued to use their family’s symbol on their insignia.

Made by the Spanish court jeweller Ansorena, the headpiece features three large Fleur de Lys motifs, each set with old mine cut diamonds and connected by diamond swirls and scrolls, all set in Platinum.

It’s original setting was enclosed, like a small crown or coronet but as fashions changed, Ansorena adapted the piece so that it could be worn in a more open style and worn lower on the forehead.

Like many other European Monarchies in the 20th Century, the Spanish royals were forced into exile in 1931 after Spain declared itself a Republic. Miraculously, Queen Ena managed to retain her many jewels. Although she was forced to sell several pieces to support her family she did keep a core collection of important pieces, one of them being the Fleur de Lys tiara.

In 1953, Queen Ena loaned the piece to her daughter-in-law, Maria de Las Mercedes, Countess of Barcelona for the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II.
In her memoirs Maria recalled:

The Joyas de Pasar - The Jewels of the Queen of Spain - The Fleur de Lys Tiara - La Buena - Maria de la Mercedes, Countess of Barcelona

I think that the tiara of the fleurs-de-lys, which Alfonso XIll gave to Aunt Ena for the wedding, I only wore once in England for the coronation of the Queen, which was in June 1953. When we were going to leave for Westminster Abbey, I had my small tiara on, and then Queen Victoria said to me: No, you have to wear the one with the fleurs-de-lys. And I obeyed. But as soon as it was all over, I gave it back to her. They had given it to her as a gift and the logical thing is that she would have it as long as she lived. Later, when she died, they gave it to me, but I passed it on to Sofia. Aunt Ena continued to wear it for important events and for some precious photographs”. 

When she died in 1969 her vast jewellery collection was inherited by her children but as she had wished, the Joyas de Pasar passed to Maria de Las Mercedes as the de facto new Queen.

However, the complexities of Spanish politics meant that when the monarchy was restored in 1975, Maria did not become Queen of Spain. It was not until 1983, when the situation had improved that her daughter in law Queen Sofia began to wear La Buena.

Queen Sofia has been described as ‘The Most Royal Lady in Europe’.
She has the distinction of being the daughter (King Paul of Greece), sister (King Constantine of Greece), wife (King Juan Carlos of Spain) & mother (King Felipe of Spain) of Kings.
As such, she understands the importance of royal tradition and would only wear La Buena on state occasions with other monarchies.

When her husband King Juan Carlos abdicated in 2014, Sofia still retained the title of Queen but not the position.
This now belonged to her daughter in law Queen Letizia and just as the Countess of Barcelona had done, Sofia handed over the Joyas de Pasar to the new Queen.
As per Sofia’s tradition, Queen Letizia will only wear this tiara to the most important of events.

The Joyas de Pasar - The Jewels of the Queen of Spain - The Fleur de Lys Tiara - La Buena - Princess Leonor, Princess of Asturias

Princess Leonor will be the next owner of this tiara but she will have the distinction of wearing it as the first Queen Regnant of Spain since 1868.

bookmark_borderElizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Emeralds

“She was the Queen of Hollywood & she had the jewels to match.”
Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor was a British and American actress who began her career as a child actress in the early 1940s and was one of the most popular stars of classical Hollywood cinema in the 1950s.
Throughout the rest of her life, she remained a well-known public figure thanks to her eight marriages, outlandish way of life, and her dazzling collection of exquisite jewellery.

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds
Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Emeralds

By 1961 Elizabeth Taylor was the highest paid actress in the world. She received $1 million to play the leading role in the epic film ‘Cleopatra’.

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor - Cleopatra

After a false start in London, the film moved to Rome and it was there that Elizabeth met and fell in love with her co-star Richard Burton.
This relationship caused a scandal for several reasons. Not only were they both married but Elizabeth’s spouse was her deceased third husband, Mike Todd’s best friend, Eddie Fisher.

It was in Rome that Elizabeth would introduce Richard to the renowned Roman jeweller, Bulgari.

In her book ‘My Love Affair with Jewelry’ Elizabeth would describe her visit:
Undeniably, one of the biggest advantages to working on Cleopatra in Rome was Bulgari’s nice little shop…
One day Richard said “I want to buy you a present. I feel like buying you a present” and I said “Wow, What did we do today that you…that’s amazing! Where! Where shall we go?” “Bulgari of course” he said.

Elizabeth’s Emerald suite was gradually expanded by Richard Burton over their years together, comprising of a number of remarkable pieces.
Christie’s catalogued them as:

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Flower Spray Brooch

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND FLOWER BROOCH, BY BVLGARI
Mounted en tremblant, designed as a spray of variously-shaped diamond flower blossoms set with oval-cut emerald pistils and petals, extending baguette-cut diamond stems, mounted in platinum, 1960
By BVLGARI

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Earrings

A PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY BVLGARI
Each suspending a pear-shaped emerald, within a graduated circular-cut diamond surround, to the marquise and circular-cut diamond quatrefoil surmount, mounted in platinum, 1960
By BVLGARI

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Brooch & Necklace

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BVLGARI
Set with a graduated series of sixteen rectangular-cut and square-cut emeralds, each within a circular-cut diamond surround, spaced by graduated circular-cut, marquise-cut and pear-shaped diamond quatrefoils, mounted in platinum, 1962, 14¼ ins., with pendant hoop for suspension, may be worn suspending lot twenty-nine
Signed BVLGARI
AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDANT BROOCH, BY BVLGARI
Set with a rectangular-cut emerald, within a pear-shaped diamond surround, mounted in platinum, 1958, may be worn suspended from lot twenty-eight
Signed BVLGARI
*These were separate pieces but wore often worn together

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Ring

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, BY BVLGARI
Set with a rectangular-cut emerald, within a circular and modified triangular-cut diamond surround, mounted in platinum, 1962
Signed BVLGARI

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Bracelet

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY BVLGARI
Set with a graduated series of thirteen rectangular-cut and square-cut emeralds, spaced by rectangular-cut diamonds, trimmed with circular-cut diamond trefoils and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum, 1963, 6¾ ins.
Signed BVLGARI


Burton and Taylor would become the biggest stars of the 1960s. Not only for their jet set lifestyle but for the classic films they made together.

When she won her second Oscar for ‘Who’s afraid of Virginia Woolf’ Elizabeth chose to wear her Emerald suite.

She and Burton divorced in 1974 but reconciled soon after, remarrying in 1975. The second marriage ended in divorce in 1976. Burton died in 1984 but Elizabeth maintained that they would probably have married again.

She would continue to wear her emeralds in later life.

When she died in 2011, it was decided to auction her jewels to raise money for her AIDS foundation.
It was at this time that a very strange rumour regarding the origins of the Emeralds began. It had been suggested that they once belonged to Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, The Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia.

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Emeralds - Emerald and Diamond Jewels from Bulgari - Grand Duchess Vladimir Emeralds
Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Emeralds – Emerald and Diamond Jewels from Bulgari – Grand Duchess Vladimir Emeralds

However, Jewellery Historian Vincent Meylan refuted this story:

From time to time, I read that the emerald necklace created by Bulgari for Elizabeth Taylor was, at least partly, created with some of the extraordinary emeralds from the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia ‘s necklace!
This is not true and further more, it is impossible. Grand Duchess Vladimir´s emeralds were spectacular. As most of you know, after her death, her emeralds were sold at Cartier who used seven of them on a necklace which was sold to Barbara Hutton. In 1966, Barbara Hutton got tired of her necklace and she brought it at Van Cleef and Arpels in Paris. Van Cleef bought the emeralds. In April 1967, Elizabeth Taylor appeared at a public event in London wearing a rather spectacular emerald necklace created by Bulgari. Around Elizabeth Taylor’s jewellery auction in 2011, a rumour started : some of the emeralds included in Elizabeth Taylor’s necklace may come from from Barbara Hutton’s necklace and therefore from Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia. Neither Christie’s, who organised the auction, or Bulgari, who bought back the necklace ever commented on that subject. But some still wanted to believe in that legend.

With Elizabeth Taylor’s passing in 2011, the emeralds were sold at Christie’s in a legendary auction that raised $137.2 million for her AIDS foundation. These exquisite gems, once a symbol of love, continue to sparkle as a reminder of her timeless elegance and legacy in the world of cinema. The Emeralds are now part of the Bulgari Heritage Collection

bookmark_borderBalkan Royal Jewels – The Yugoslavian Diamond Kokoshnik Tiara

Despite only existing from 1918 to 1945, The Kingdom of Yugoslavia held an impressive royal jewellery collection.
The main branch of the family may have owned the Yugoslavian Emeralds, but I would argue that the junior members of the Karađorđević clan possessed the more magnificent jewels. Continue Reading….

bookmark_borderWallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor – The Van Cleef and Arpels Rubies

Wallis Simpson, born on June 19, 1896, in Pennsylvania, United States, gained worldwide notoriety for her role in the abdication crisis of King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom.
While her relationship with the British monarch remains one of the most well-known aspects of her life, Wallis Simpson had an unparalleled passion for exquisite jewellery. Her dazzling collection featured an extensive array of breathtaking Sapphires, exquisite Diamonds, mesmerising Emeralds, and an impressive suite of stunning Ruby jewellery

The Ruby pieces were all given to Wallis during The Year of the Abdication, 1936. Having been his mistress for a number of years, upon his ascension to the throne in January, Wallis Simpson believed that her relationship with the new King Edward VIII would come to an end. However, his love for her only grew stronger, eventually reaching a level of obsession.
He turned to the famous French Jewellery house, Van Cleef and Arpels, to help him convey these overwhelming feelings into a suite of fiery, passionate ruby set jewels.


The Ruby and Diamond Bracelet
The first piece in this legendary collection was a Ruby and Diamond bracelet given to Wallis in March 1936. Featuring forty Cushion Cut Rubies, the impressive jewel also bore an inscription in Edward’s own handwriting. Determined to have Wallis crowned next to him as his Queen, ‘Hold Tight’ is thought to have been a personal plea from the King to Wallis, begging her not to leave him.


The Ruby and Diamond Necklace

For her 40th Birthday in June 1936, Edward returned to Van Cleef and Arpels with gemstones that he had been given when he toured India in 1921-22 as the Prince of Wales. The meticulous records kept by the jewellers show that several designs were produced before the King settled on the initial ‘Bib’ creation.
Like the Ruby bracelet, the necklace carried another handwritten engraving – ‘My Wallis from her David 19 VI 36’ (David was the name his family called Edward)

It is believed that the original necklace was extremely similar to one created for Helen Beaumont that was later sold at Christie’s in 2020.

As she would do with so many of her jewels, Wallis would return to Van Cleef & Arpels to redesign the necklace in collaboration with the master jeweller Renee-Sim Lacaze.
In 1939, they transformed the original ‘Bib’ into one of the Duchess’ most iconic pieces, variously known as the Torsade, Entrelac de Rubans or Cravat necklace.

The Ruby and Diamond Brooch

Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor – The Van Cleef and Arpels Rubies - Ruby and Diamond Leaves Brooch - Mystery Invisible Set
Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor – The Van Cleef and Arpels Rubies – Ruby and Diamond Leaves Brooch – Mystery Invisible Set

As 1936 came to an end, it became obvious that Edward VIII would abdicate his throne rather than give up Wallis Simpson. While he negotiated his departure, he ordered Wallis’ Christmas present from Van Cleef and Arpels – A Ruby and Diamond Brooch (described as Feathers or Holly Leaves)

This Brooch would turn out to be an historically important jewel as it was one of the first to feature Van Cleef and Arpels legendary Mystery Set technique.
The “Serti Mystérieux” or “Mystery Set’ was invented in 1933. The technique involves mounting stones into extremely thin gold rails, making the prongs invisible. The stones are specially cut with a groove near the culet so that they can be slid onto the rails and placed alongside neighbouring stones.

The invisible setting technique creates an uninterrupted surface of stones without any visible metal. The gems appear to float on the surface of the jewel, shaped as if by magic. This type of setting is most often used when multiple diamonds are mounted in a row or in multiple rows.

After World War II, Wallis and Edward emerged as the de facto leaders of Café Society. Their prominent status meant they frequently graced glamorous gatherings and social events.
At a ball given by Helene Rochas in Paris 1965, Wallis chose to wear her all her Rubies, even fashioning the Brooch into a headpiece which she is supposed to have called ‘my Prince of Wales feathers’

Like her Engagement Ring and her many other bejewelled possesions, the Rubies were sold at auction at Sotheby’s after the Duchess’ death in 1987.
The proceeds from the sale were donated to Pasteur Institute in Paris.

bookmark_borderGrace Kelly’s Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Wedding Bracelet

Grace Kelly's Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Wedding Bracelet - Princess Grace of Monaco

Although their Principality may be famous for its Grand Prix, generous income tax laws and being the second smallest state in the world, the Princes of Monaco do not have a conventional collection of royal jewels unlike their dynastic counterparts throughout Europe.
Therefore, when she married Prince Rainier in 1956, the American actress Grace Kelly had to start her own jewellery collection from scratch. Prince Rainier’s mother, Princess Charlotte, did own several impressive pieces (such as her Cartier Pearl and Diamond Fringe Tiaras) but these were personal property and she was apparently unwilling to share with her new daughter in law.

Fortunately for Grace, she had received several impressive jewelled wedding presents to kick start the collection, including a beautiful Pearl and Diamond Parure from the French Jeweller, Van Cleef & Arpels,
two engagement rings and a Diamond and Ruby tiara from Cartier


In order to make up for causing a minor scandal, the National Council of Monaco purchased their new princess a 58 Carat Diamond Cartier Necklace and an intricate diamond bracelet from Van Cleef and Arpels.

Set in platinum, this beautiful bracelet contains Round Brilliant and Baguette Cut Diamonds set in an interlaced pattern with three large diamond elements interspersed throughout.


Keen to live up to the fairy-tale image, Princess Grace would wear her most impressive jewels during her early years to state events, such as when visiting the Vatican in 1957.

She would continue to wear her Diamond bracelet (along with her other Wedding presents) throughout her life, for both official and social events.


After her tragic death in 1982, Princess Grace’s jewellery became part of the ‘Palais Princier de Monaco Collection’.
This Collection encompasses not only jewels but fine art, furniture and Prince Rainier’s famous vintage cars. Princess Grace’s Jewels are often loaned out to exhibitions.

Grace Kelly's Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Wedding Bracelet - Princess Grace of Monaco
Grace Kelly’s Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Wedding Bracelet – Princess Grace of Monaco

The jewels are available for use by any member of the Grimaldi family but it has been Princess Caroline who has been the main wearer of her family’s pieces over the years.  From the time of her mother’s death in 1982 to her brother Albert’s marriage in 2011, Caroline was effectively Monaco’s first lady.
As such, she would wear her mother’s jewels when representing and promoting the Principality. In 1999, Princess Caroline married Prince Ernst August of Hanover, Duke of Brunswick. This marriage elevated Caroline from a Serene Highness (HSH) to a Royal Highness (HRH) and put her at the heart of the European Royal Society.
Ernst August is head of the House of Hanover which makes him related to all the major European royal families. Therefore, Caroline’s presence is required at high profile events where she will often wear elements of her mother’s jewellery collection.

Continuing the tradition, the younger Grimaldi’s have now begun to wear Princess Grace’s jewels.
At the annual Rose Ball in Monte Carlo in 2019, Tatiana Santo Domingo (wife of Grace’s grandson Andrea Casiraghi) wore the Diamond Bracelet along with Princess Grace’s anniversary earrings.

bookmark_borderPrincess Diana’s Sapphire Jewels

It is hard to remember Princess Diana without thinking about her magnificent collection of Sapphire jewellery. She was synonymous with the dark blue jewel from the moment she entered the public eye and over the years she managed to build a sumptuous collection featuring some outstanding pieces . Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderThe Greek Royal Rubies

Worn by the Queens of the Hellenes (Greece), this beautifully delicate Ruby and Diamond Parure includes a Ruby Olive Wreath and Diamond tiara, a pair of Diamond and Ruby drop earrings, an impressive Diamond and Ruby necklace and two magnificent Diamond and Ruby brooches. Originating in Imperial Russia, it can still be seen at important Royal events today. Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderMonaco’s Royal Jewels – The Diamond Fringe Tiara Mystery

Although their Principality may be famous for its Grand Prix, generous income tax laws and being the second smallest state in the world, the Princes of Monaco do not have a conventional collection of royal jewels unlike their dynastic counterparts throughout Europe.
The Grimaldi’s may have ruled the principality since 1297, but before the American actress Grace Kelly enlarged the royal jewellery collection with her marriage to Prince Rainier in 1956, the next best thing were the personal jewels of Rainier’s mother, Princess Charlotte, Duchess of Valentinois.

Continue Reading…

bookmark_borderJAR – Joel Arthur Rosenthal – The Greatest Living Jeweller

Joel Arthur Rosenthal is commonly known within the jewellery community as the ‘Greatest Living Jeweller’.

But despite his impressive reputation, he is practically unknown to the general public.
Unlike the other reigning jewellery dynasties such as Cartier and Faberge, Mr Rosenthal has no family connections to jewels and gemstones. He has no website, no social media and his shop in Paris’ Place Vendôme has no jewels displayed in its windows.

So how does a man with no public persona become a living legend?


In 1966, after studying linguistics, art history and philosophy in his native New York, JAR moved to Paris and opened a small sewing shop. There he experimented with unusually coloured yarns, earning himself commissions from designers such as Hermès and Valentino. Rosenthal only began experimenting with fine jewellery when he was asked to design a mount for a Gemstone.

With his background in textiles, JARs pieces were characterised by their fine pavé set formations, which resembled a piece of needlework. His first creations were made of affordable materials such as coral, moonstone and small diamonds. Eventually, he began to work with semi precious stones such as sapphires, rubies & emeralds.

With his growing success it would’ve been assumed that his jewellery business would become a mainstream brand like his Place Vendôme neighbours but this is where the mystery of JAR and his creations lie:

You cannot simply walk into his atelier, buy or commission a piece from him; An introduction has to be made via an established client.
Once you meet with Rosenthal, he will create a piece FOR you; I imagine some input is made but the ‘myth’ is that upon meeting JAR, he decides the design, gemstones and metalwork that you will be adorned in. This intimate connection between JAR, the jewel and the owner is so central to Rosenthal’s philosophy that it makes up an integral part of the experience of any JAR jewel.
His business model is so selective that his workshop only produces around 70 to 80 pieces a year. Because of this tactic, his designs can only be seen at rare exhibitions or at select auction houses.


The Exhibitions

His first public exhibition was held in 2002 at London’s Somerset House. Featuring four hundred pieces from his exclusive clientele, the jewels were displayed in dark cabinets with visitors having to use a torchlight to see them. This, according to Rosenthal, was because “jewellery needs to flicker”.


In 2013, he became the only living jeweller to have an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
“Joel is one of the pre-eminent jewellery designers in the world.,” the Met’s director said in an interview, “He’s almost like a sculptor in gems.”  
The exhibit displayed the key concerns of Rosenthal’s work:
Colour, Sculpture, Nature and Intimacy.


The Auctions

Possibly the most famous event surrounding JAR was the Ellen Barkin auction in 2006.

After an unpleasant divorce, Ms Barkin decided to auction all the jewels that she had received from her ex husband. Amongst them were an astonishing 17 pieces by JAR, the largest collection of his work to ever come on the market.

JAR - Joel Arthur Rosenthal - The Greatest Living Jeweller - Ellen Barkin
JAR – Joel Arthur Rosenthal – The Greatest Living Jeweller – Ellen Barkin

Offered for sale were several impressive examples of JAR’s signature ‘needlework’ designs.
One notable piece was the Diamond ‘Thread’ Ring which featured a magnificent 22.76ct D VVS1 Oval cut Diamond housed within a diamond set two tiered ‘threadwork’ mount

So (in)famous was this auction that it became the inspiration for the Samantha Jones’ storyline in the iconic Sex and the City Movie.
The ring is question was modelled on JARs Diamond ‘Gardenia’.
Designed as a sculpted gardenia blossom, it featured pavé-set in diamonds and was set in both in silver and gold,

JAR - Joel Arthur Rosenthal - The Greatest Living Jeweller - Ellen Barkin - Samantha Jones - Sex and the City
JAR – Joel Arthur Rosenthal – The Greatest Living Jeweller – Ellen Barkin – Samantha Jones – Sex and the City

The Auction of the Lily Safra Collection was held in Geneva in 2012 to benefit Mrs Safra’s charitable foundation.
Arguably, two of the most impressive jewels ever created by JAR were to be featured at this historic occasion:

The Tourmaline and Diamond Flower Brooch
Designed as two green and pink tourmaline poppy flowerhead and bud, linked by a green tourmaline scrolling stem centering upon a pear-shaped diamond, weighing approximately 37.23 carats,

JAR - Joel Arthur Rosenthal - The Greatest Living Jeweller - Lily Safra
JAR – Joel Arthur Rosenthal – The Greatest Living Jeweller – Lily Safra

The Ruby Flower Brooch
Truly an iconic jewel, the flower was entirely pavé-set with rubies weighing a total of approximately 173.09 carats, mounted in silver and gold.

JAR - Joel Arthur Rosenthal - The Greatest Living Jeweller - Lily Safra
JAR – Joel Arthur Rosenthal – The Greatest Living Jeweller – Lily Safra

This jewel is not just visually stunning, it is a true testament to JARs dedication to fine craftsmanship.
Rubies come in all different shades and hues of Red; from deepest blood coloured to borderline pink.
Every ruby on this brooch matches all the others exactly. These stones would have taken months if not years to source.

In the ever-evolving world of craftsmanship and artistry, JAR continues to leave an indelible mark on the industry to this day. His exceptional talent and unwavering dedication has set him apart as a true visionary, redefining the boundaries of beauty and elegance in every creation.
As time goes on, this living legend’s influence remains a source of inspiration for aspiring artisans and budding collectors alike, ensuring that their illustrious impact on the world of jewellery endures for generations to come.