In 1985, the renowned jewellery author Suzy Menkes wrote her pivotal book ‘The Royal Jewels’.
Through her research, she compiled an extensive list of jewels that Queen Victoria had designated ‘as belonging to the Crown and to be worn by all future Queens in right of it‘
These were to be known as ‘The Heirlooms of the British Crown’
The jewels now referred to as the Coronation Necklace and Earrings were not specifically made for a Coronation ceremony.
After the ‘Hanoverian Claim‘, Queen Victoria needed to replenish her jewellery collection. In 1858, diamonds from a Garter badge and a sword hilt were removed to create a necklace of 28 brilliant collets (single stone diamonds).
The diamonds were set in silver with gold links, their weights ranging between 8.25 – 11.25ct
The drop pear shaped diamond pendant was a 22.48ct diamond, known as ‘The Lahore Diamond’. This stone had been taken from the original necklace that held the Timur Ruby.
To accompany the new necklace, a pair of diamond drop earrings were also made. Featuring two cushion cut and two old mine cut, the pendant drops were two pear-shaped diamonds, from the original armlet of the Koh-i-Noor diamond, weighing 7 & 12cts.
Despite going into semi-retirement after her husband Prince Albert’s death in 1861, Victoria continued to wear the necklace and earrings in portraits.
Upon Victoria’s death in 1901, the set became an Heirloom of the British Crown, passing to Queen Alexandra.
Alexandra was the first Queen to wear the necklace (not the earrings) to a Coronation but it is difficult to differentiate which one it is from photographs.
Queen Mary made some minor alterations to the set when she inherited them in 1911. Two solitaire diamonds were removed to make single stone earrings. The Lahore Diamond was also removed and recut for her coronation crown but she returned it to the necklace after.
Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, wore the necklace along with her own coronation rivière for her enthronement in 1937.
When Queen Elizabeth II became the reigning Queen in 1952, she had the necklace altered further by removing four stones to shorten the length.
Queen Elizabeth would wear the set frequently at both formal and informal events over her 70 year reign.
As an Heirloom of the British Crown, the set passed to Queen Camilla in 2022. She wore the necklace for her Coronation.