Wallis Simpson, born on June 19, 1896, in Pennsylvania, United States, gained worldwide notoriety for her role in the abdication crisis of King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom.
While her relationship with the British monarch remains the most well-known aspect of her life, Wallis Simpson had an unparalleled passion for exquisite jewellery. Her dazzling collection featured an extensive array of breathtaking Rubies, mesmerising Emeralds, and an impressive collection of bejewelled animals.
Having been his mistress for a number of years, upon his ascension to the throne in January, Wallis Simpson believed that her relationship with the new King Edward VIII would come to an end. However, his love for her only grew stronger, eventually reaching a level of obsession.
Despite Edward’s strong desire for Wallis to become his queen, the government and the Church of England would not accept a divorced woman as his consort. Moreover, there were underlying concerns about Edward’s suitability for the throne, which led to his eventual abdication in December 1936.
In his famous speech, Edward (now to be known as the Duke of Windsor) declared:
‘I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as king as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.‘
Wallis and Edward would marry France in 1937 but despite marrying a former king, Wallis was denied the title HRH (Her Royal Highness). This did not stop Edward from buying her jewels fit for a Queen.
Pearls have been a favoured gem of royalty dating back to Cleopatra. Before the large-scale export of diamonds from India, pearls were among the world’s most expensive gemstones, as they were so rare.
Wallis however, was not a fan of Pearl jewellery and her large collection featured very few pearl pieces. When he abdicated the throne in 1936, his mother Queen Mary and the rest of the royal family vowed never to receive Wallis. So it was a surprise in 1952 when Queen Mary died, she left a Pearl necklace to her eldest son.
The necklace is composed of 28 natural pearls ranging in size from approximately 9.2 mm to 16.8 mm. The length of the necklace is 14 inches, A close examination of the pearls show that, the shape of the pearls vary from round to near-round, button, oval and near-baroque. The colour of the pearls are white. The lustre and orient of the pearls are characteristic of natural saltwater pearls, associated with their thick nacre. The clasp bears the signature of Cartier, Paris, is oval in shape, and set with two emerald-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 2 carats and two fancy-shaped diamonds, weighing approximately one carat, surrounded by 20 small round single-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 0.70 carat.
There was another similar pearl choker in her collection but the one from Queen Mary can be differentiated by the diamond clasp.
The Duke added to the set by purchasing a Pearl and Diamond pendant. Weighing 190.60 grains (equivalent to 47.65 carats or 9.53 grams) and having a diameter of approximately 18.4 mm, it is a large natural almost drop-shaped (slightly baroque) pearl. The pearl is drilled at the top and fitted with a bell cap, set with round single-cut diamonds, to which is attached a detachable, stirrup-shaped, diamond-set pendant fitting.
To complete the suite, in 1958 Edward purchased a pair of black and white natural pearl and diamond earclips by Van Cleef & Arpels. The centrepiece of the earclips are a perfectly spherical black pearl with a diameter of 18.2 mm and another spherical white pearl with a diameter of 18.1 mm. Set in white gold, the pearls are surrounded by 32 pear-shaped and 64 rounded diamonds, with a total weight of approximately 9.25 carats.
Wallis would wear the entire suite throughout her later life.
Poignantly, Wallis wore the Pearls for Edward’s funeral in 1972. He was buried in the grounds of Windsor Castle and this was one of the only times she was acknowledged by the royal family.
Like her many other bejewelled possessions, the Pearl suite was sold at auction at Sotheby’s after her death in 1987. The proceeds from the sale were donated to Pasteur Institute in Paris.
The designer Calvin Klein purchased the natural pearl necklace, the pendant and earrings. In 2007 they auctioned all three pieces for a combined total of over $4 million. They are now part of the Cartier Heritage Collection and are on display at the Victoria and Albert museum in London
