Wallis Simpson, born on June 19, 1896, in Pennsylvania, United States, gained worldwide notoriety for her role in the abdication crisis of King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom.
While her relationship with the British monarch remains the most well-known aspect of her life, Wallis Simpson had an unparalleled passion for exquisite jewellery. Her dazzling collection featured an extensive array of breathtaking Rubies, mesmerising Emeralds, and an impressive collection of bejewelled animals.
Having been his mistress for a number of years, upon his ascension to the throne in January, Wallis Simpson believed that her relationship with the new King Edward VIII would come to an end. However, his love for her only grew stronger, eventually reaching a level of obsession.
Despite Edward’s strong desire for Wallis to become his queen, the government and the Church of England would not accept a divorced woman as his consort. Moreover, there were underlying concerns about Edward’s suitability for the throne, which led to his eventual abdication in December 1936.
In his famous speech, Edward (now to be known as the Duke of Windsor) declared:
‘I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as king as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.‘
Wallis and Edward would marry France in 1937 but despite marrying a former king, Wallis was denied the title HRH (Her Royal Highness). This did not stop Edward from buying her jewels fit for a Queen.
One of the wedding presents Wallis received from her new husband was a sumptuous Sapphire and Diamond bracelet, often referred to as a Jarretière. Edward had bought many pieces for Wallis from French jewellers Van Cleef & Arpels so he returned to them to commission this piece. The Jarretière was designed by their renowned jeweller, Renne Sin Lacaze who would go on to re-design Wallis’ Ruby Necklace.
Jarretière translates to ‘Garter’, the bracelet featured a diamond ‘ribbon’ that could be slipped through the back of a large circular Sapphire and Diamond element which would then clip to secure. It has been suggested that this piece was meant to mimic those worn by the Order of the Garter, the highest honour a British monarch can bestow, something Wallis may have received had she become Queen.
Described in the Sotheby’s Sale Catalogue:
Designed as a wide flexible band of baguette and circular cut diamonds, the clasp is stylised bow design invisibly set with cushion shaped sapphires and baguette diamonds, inscribed in facsimile ‘For our Contract 18-V-37; signed and numbered: Van Cleef & Arpels – Paris – 46923
Like her Ruby Brooch, Van Cleef employed its legendary ‘Invisible Set’ technique for the 45 Sapphires featured in the central element.
As he did with many of her jewels, Edward inscribed the piece with a personal hidden message ‘For our Contract 18-V-37’. This was the date they were given legal permission to marry.
It is worth noting that only one other Iconic piece of jewellery has been referred to as a Jarretière, the Ruby and Diamond Jarretière owned by the legendary actress Marlene Dietrich.
Like her Flamingo Brooch, this important piece was rarely worn by the Duchess. She wore it for a series of portraits by George Hoyningen Huene in 1937, features her mysterious ‘tiara’
After World War II, Wallis and Edward emerged as the de facto leaders of Café Society. Their prominent status meant they frequently graced glamorous gatherings and social events
Like her many other bejewelled possessions, the Sapphire Bracelet was sold at auction at Sotheby’s after her death in 1987. The proceeds from the sale were donated to Pasteur Institute in Paris.