In 1985, the renowned jewellery author Suzy Menkes wrote her pivotal book ‘The Royal Jewels’.
Through her research, she compiled an extensive list of jewels that Queen Victoria had designated ‘as belonging to the Crown and to be worn by all future Queens in right of it‘
These were to be known as ‘The Heirlooms of the British Crown’
The most recognisable item in the collection is the George IV Diadem (sometimes referred to as The Diamond Diadem)
In 1820, the London jewellers Rundell, Bridge & Rundell was commissioned by the king to make him a new crown for his Coronation. George IV was know for his flamboyant tastes and he was determined to out do his great nemesis Napoleon and the magnificent Coronation he had held at Notre Dame.
Made of gold and silver, the frame measures 7.5 centimetres (3.0 in) tall and 19 centimetres (7.5 in) in diameter. It is set with 1,333 diamonds weighing a total of 320 carats, including a four-carat yellow diamond at the front. Instead of the heraldic fleurs-de-lis usually seen on British crowns, the diadem has four bouquets of roses, thistles and shamrocks, the floral symbols of England, Scotland and Ireland respectively, alternating with four crosses pattée. The base of the diadem features two strings of pearls.
Despite its commission for George’s use, the diadem was not worn as it was felt the design of the finished piece was too ‘effeminate”.
As such, the diadem has since been reserved for queen regnants and consorts.
Strangely, Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother was never pictured or painted in this diadem during her time as Queen Consort to King George VI. When she went to the State opening of Parliament she preferred to wear the Oriental Circlet or her own Coronation Crown.
The diadem became truly iconic when it was inherited by Queen Elizabeth II.
As the diadem was featured in the portraits that were used for postage stamps and banknotes, it became recognised the world over.
Queen Elizabeth would continuously wear the diadem throughout her reign.
After her death in 2022, the George IV diadem is now in the possession of Queen Camilla, who has continued tradition and worn it to the State Opening of Parliament.
